Climb Alpamayo - Blue Square Productions

Climb where the weather is stable, the mountains are tall and glaciated, and the culture is alive. Leave the crowds behind and step deep into the Peruvian Andes.

The Cordillera Blanca (White Mountain) range has many possibilities for your climbing ambitions. We specialize in private trips, and will create an expedition crafted around your schedule, abilities, and interests. This is adventure travel exactly the way you want it. The life experience you will walk away with is priceless. Peru offers all levels of climbing objectives, which allows us to deliver an appropriate and compelling adventure for you.

Heading to Alpamayos high camp

Alpamayo, Peru 19,511' / 5947m

The Climb 

This mountain, seen in the banner above, is one of Peru's true gems. Not for the faint of heart, this climb is a great test piece for those interested in technical high altitude climbing. The trek into basecamp is one of the most scenic in the country, and donkey support keep your pack under 10 pounds (4kg). From basecamp the trekking ends and the climbing begins. With climbing packs we advance up to the moraine camp, and finally high camp. On our summit push we will ascend 1000' (300m) of 50-75° snow and ice via the route most appropriate given the conditions, likely the French Direct Route. Following our summit day, if time conditions and fitness allow, we will tackle Alpamayo's sister peak, Quitaraju. This is also a technical climb, that breaks the 6000+ meter ceiling. 

Team members must be in top physical condition, aka "hard to kill" as Mark Twight puts it. Ice climbing skills are mandatory, and can be honed with prep days in the States prior to the expedition. 

 Mark Smiley is an IFMGA Licensed Mountain Guide, and will be leading the trip. In an effort to keep costs to a minimum, yet still have a high quality experience, the max number of team members is four. There will be a second guide on this trip to both ensure safety and maintain the internationally recognized safety standard of 2:1 ratio. This will allow for a fun safe and efficient climb. The other perk about climbing with another person is you can bring a friend. One person can belay while the other shoots photos, it really is a cool way to climb a mountain like Alpamayo.


°June 4 - 15, 2018

°Max four team members, two guides (2:1 ratio)

°Several support staff Donkeys carry the loads 

°Alpamayo 19551' & Quitaraju 19816' 

°Price: $5900 Includes: Hotels, Airfare Lima - Huaraz - Lima, ground transportation in country, food on mountain, guides, cooks, porters, donkeys, park fees, group gear, logistical support, training plan, 15% off all ice climbing prep days with Mark Smiley, pro level photos Mark takes of you in action during the expedition, and a beautiful ready-to-hang print of your favorite photograph from the trip. 

°Does not include: Airfare to Lima, food while off the mountain (restaurants), expenses incurred for itinerary deviation, personal travel insurance, airport taxes (approx $50), personal expenses, alcohol, gratuities for Peruvian support staff (approx $5-$100/person depending on quality of service rendered. Mark will not accept tips. If you liked the service he rendered, show it by booking him for another trip). 

°Deposit: $1000 due to hold your reservation, nonrefundable. 

°You must be physically and mentally prepared to succeed on a climb of this difficulty. If you are not ready, Mark will lay out a path to get you there.

Artesonraju at night


June 4: Fly to Lima (LIM). Most flights arrive late in the evening, hotel in Lima 

June 5: Day bus to Huaraz. Prep day in Huaraz. 

June 6: Hike from trailhead up the main valley for 4-6 hrs 

June 7: Hike to basecamp 

June 8: Hike to the Moraine camp 

June 9: Climb to high camp 

June 10: Summit day Alpamayo 

June 11: Rest day

June 12: Summit day Quitaraju 

June 13: Back to basecamp 

June 14: Back to Huaraz to celebrate 

June 15: Commuter flight returns you to Lima by noon. Book your departure for after 3PM. 

June 16: Arrive back home in the morning. Shortly after, receive a wall display print of your favorite image from the trip.

Contact Mark today:

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